The infamous Salumi “Backroom Lunch”

Private lunch for the lucky few

Salumi, the tiny storefront and deli in Pioneer Square, is probably one of the most well-known restaurants in Seattle. That could be because their house-cured meats are out-of-this-world good, or because it’s run by a family with the last name of Batali (as in Mario). Foodies, local workers and tourists on their way to Sea-Tac wait in hour-long lines for their sandwiches, sometimes lining up at 10:30am just to make sure the legendary porchetta doesn’t run out.

The sandwiches are justifiably amazing, but Salumi also offers a more private, sit-down experience — as long as you have a half-dozen friends willing to join you and are proactive enough to book two months in advance. This is the Salumi “backroom lunch”, a private five-course meal for 8-10 people served in the small backroom of the restaurant. It’s only offered on Wednesdays and Thursdays, and for $40 per person (plus tax, tip and wine) Chef Bryan cooks whatever he’s feeling that’s fresh. You just sit back and eat for three hours.

Spurred by a query by Jeremy on Twitter back in January, a group of friends booked a meal for a couple weeks ago. Wine bottles in hand, we breezed past the hungry lineup for the sandwich counter and settled in at our reserved table in the backroom.

First uncorked was a bottle of Carabella 2007 Pinot Gris (thanks to Frank), while we snacked on some appetizers laid out on the table. There was a platter of some of Salumi’s cured meats, like salami, prosciutto and the mole salami, as well as their house-spiced olives and fresh baguette.

Meaty goodness

Once everyone arrived, Brian brought out some lardo-wrapped breadsticks. Lardo is cured pig fat, served warm so it melts on your tongue. He thoughtfully brought out a plate of leftover scraps as well.

So porky

While we tapped into the house wine, Farnese Montepulciano d’Abbruzzo, Brian started bringing out the first courses. Surprisingly, given the meaty focus of the restaurant, he presented us with platter after platter of vegetables. First came out balsamic mushrooms and cipollini onions, cooked until tender and sweet. Then came baby artichokes with parmesan and green beans in pesto.

Naturally, pork was not completely absent from the vegetable parade. One of the best dishes was sauteed Brussels sprouts with guanciale (pork jowl), and asparagus stalks arrived wrapped in prosciutto.

Guanciale makes Brussels sprouts happy

At this point, someone at the table mentioned they’d seen a sign out front offering chicharrones (fried pork skins). Apparently they only offer it rarely, about 10 times a year total, when they have it in stock. Brian kindly brought out a plate full of the warm, crispy, porky goodness for us all to share. These bites were like essence of pork and COMPLETELY addictive.

Chicharrones!

We then tried to take a moment to take photos, but Brian said “gnocchi waits for no one” and delivered a massive platter of gnocchi with sage “made by Mario Batali’s mom.”

"Gnocchi waits for no one"

The main course — and yes, we were quite full at this point, but soldiered on — was a beautifully presented dish of Vermouth chicken with leeks and broccoli rabe. I would love to learn how to make this myself. The chicken was tender and immensely flavorful, and the slight bitterness of the broccoli rabe was a nice counterpoint to the sweetness of the caramelized leeks.

A truly dominating spread

Finally, as several of our party tapped out and went back to “work”, we finished off the meal with a not-too-sweet dessert of red wine-poached pears with chestnut ricotta and honey. Light yet complex, it was the perfect coda to an epic, unforgettable meal.

The perfect finish