Francis Mallmann's crisp sweetbreads with criolla salad

Francis Mallmann's crisp sweetbreads with criolla salad. And Malbec, of course.

Ever since I made this wondrous decision to purchase Seven Fires, the end-all, be-all guide to Argentine grilling by Francis Mallmann, I’ve been hooked on the idea of cooking sweetbreads. And why not? This man is an expert: raised in Argentina, but trained in France and now owns three of the best steakhouses (including Patagonia Sur, a Mecca for carnivores in Buenos Aires) around back in his native land. Needless to say, the book is total food porn. 

Of course, for many this decision has been met with disgust. You see, sweetbreads are beef or veal glands, and to some people that’s just gross. Organ meat tends to have that effect. To others, it’s heaven. They’re a staple at Argentine restaurants. When seared perfectly, sweetbreads develop a crunchy exterior and a creamy inside that has the consistency of flan (Mallmann’s words, not mine). 

Turns out, sweetbreads are hard to find in Seattle. I called several reputable butchers from Queen Anne to West Seattle, and came up empty. So I turned to Don & Joe’s, the butcher shop in the touristy yet charming Pike Place Market. This meant a trip downtown, finding a parking spot and weaving my way through market booths slammed with out-of-towners packing video cameras and giggling at the flying fish. 

The recipe that spurred my interest was a crispy sweetbread and baby lettuce salad. After I acquired the protein part of the meal, I met Lisa at the Queen Anne Farmer’s Market to gather the rest of the essentials. We found the lettuce from a local farm, but had to make due with hothouse tomatoes. A trip to a Metropolitan Market provided a punchy Malbec. 

Now the hard part was actually cooking the sweetbreads. I’m by no means a skilled operator when it comes to the art of making food. I have a deep appreciation for food, but all I can really do is follow a recipe. I lack the flair and imagination of Lisa, who is supremely talented. [LK note: I am flattered but this is a vast exaggeration.] One of my goals this summer, though, is to teach myself the intricacies of grilling and master them.

Sweetbreads a-crisping

Sweetbreads a-crisping

The sweetbreads were surprisingly easy. Rinse and pat dry. Coat in olive oil and sprinkle liberal amounts of sea salt and fresh pepper. Next, add to cast-iron skillet with lemon wedges. While I was doing this, Lisa prepared the salad. One of Mallmann’s points is that amateur asadors manhandle the food on the grill too much, constantly turning and massaging and poking. Wrong. The key, I’ve learned, is to let it sit and develop a crunchy crust. A few minutes and a flip later, the sweetbreads were done (and crispy!) and we plopped them on a bed of lettuce, tomatoes and red onions. Delicious. 

Sweetbreads aren’t something you cook, obviously, on a regular or even semi-regular basis. But they’re a tasty alternative and unlike most meats you’ll ever eat.